How To Clean Carbon Off Exhaust Valves

patgizz

i've procured the LS6 heads for my impala, and my valve spring compressor came the other day.

I am switching out to new valve springs for my new cam, and take encountered lots of carbon. some exhaust valves have a thick layer on the combustion side, and all have quite a fleck on the stem and backside of the valve head.

how do i remove information technology safely without damaging the machined sealing surface of the valve? is there something readily bachelor that they tin can be soaked in?

also - is there some solution i can mix upwards or purchase in a bucket to toss big aluminum parts into and degrease/clean them to look relatively new? or at least remove all the nasty crap without pressure washing information technology all over myself/the driveway/everything within l feet. i thought of getting some drinking glass bead for my blasting cabinet because it leaves a much nicer terminate on aluminum than sand does. i have ii large accompaniment brackets for my truck that look like crap, and i'thou trying to make that engine await as prissy as possible with cleaning and rattle can black engine paint and as factory right equally possible before i drop it in.

wouldn't heed soaking the aluminum LS6 heads too once disassembled to go them cleaner than i can in the parts washer with brushes and mineral spirits.

Zomby Woof

Wire bicycle for the valves, and i of the purple degreasers for the heads, only read the instructions beginning.

stuart in mn

I've used a wire bike on the valves with sucess. I don't know most LS engines, simply it's probably a skillful thought to lap the valves with grinding compound before you reassemble the heads.

For cleaning the aluminum parts, NAPA sells what they phone call aluminum brightener cleaner; it comes in a spray bottle or a gallon jug. It's nasty stuff (wear rubber gloves and eye protection) simply it works very well.

Ditchdigger

Caustic degreasers (like the purple stuff)are incredibly effective just, will at the minimum discolor aluminum and if left too long tin starting time to degrade it.

Acid based cleaners aren't every bit constructive on oils only will really clean the aluminum.

Perhaps the best compromise might be to clean with a diluted caustic and then bring back the finish with a brightener.

novaderrik

the "wash" setting at the local coin operated car wash gets engine parts equally clean as they need to exist for a driver.. they won't await foundry fresh, but it's an engine, and engines get dingy most immediately once you start driving down the route.

Baked on oil on internal aluminum castings and heavy grease/dirt will cook abroad with "aircraft pigment stripper". You lot tin get it in the paint section of virtually auto parts stores.

Just spray information technology on and power-launder it off. I have my stuff to the money motorcar wash for power-washing.

It also cleans upward the combustion chamber carbon deposits.

For valves, I put a lot of tape on the stems and chuck the valve on to the drill press and apply an angle grinder with a wire wheel to get the valves looking make new.

fujioko wrote: Baked on oil on internal aluminum castings and heavy grease/dirt will melt away with "aircraft pigment stripper". Yous can get it in the paint section of most auto parts stores. Merely spray it on and power-wash information technology off. I take my stuff to the coin automobile launder for power-washing. Information technology too cleans up the combustion chamber carbon deposits. For valves, I put a lot of tape on the stems and chuck the valve on to the drill printing and use an angle grinder with a wire wheel to get the valves looking make new.

All proficient stuff. You did mention that you had a smash cabinet. Yes do get some glass beads and clean the valves and aluminum parts if they fit in the cabinet. First de-grease the parts as best as yous tin. I utilize glass bead to make clean heads, valves, intakes, etc.

oldeskewltoy

As has already been suggested a wire bicycle should work fine on the valves. If this is a cheap "dingy" rebuild... a quick lapping will get y'all nice tight combustion chambers... I would recommend a multi-angle valve chore and dorsum cut valves.

After the valves are clean, pop them back in their guides, drop them to virtually 1/2" open and effort to "rock" them I'1000 certain there is a guide to valve spec somewhere. If they are too loose... the valve will non stay seated(sealed) for long

curtis73

I use a contumely wire wheel. A regular steel wire wheel tin brighten the steel valve. A brass wire wheel y'all can grind all you want and non mess much up.

You should still spend the five bucks on some lapping compound and a valve grinding suction cup tool.

As with almost projects like this, simply apply a metal/abrasive that is softer than the substrate.

curtis73 wrote: I utilize a brass wire bicycle. A regular steel wire bike can burnish the steel valve. A brass wire wheel you can grind all you desire and not mess much upward. You should still spend the five bucks on some lapping chemical compound and a valve grinding suction cup tool. Every bit with most projects like this, simply use a metal/abrasive that is softer than the substrate.

Just exist DAMNED Sure not to become whatever annoying into the valvestem/guide area.